When I went back to Italy for a brief Christmas break, between the wines I had the chance to drink there was a newcomer: Bulium.
I wrote about wines from valtellina before, and my passion for my birthplace wine is no secret. I thought I knew most of the local produce, but I was surprised to find out about this project.
Every year, hectares of precious terraced wineyards are lost to the pressure of modernity and globalisation; it makes no financial sense to work hard on impervious hills, look after the typical Nebbiolo grapes (Chiavennasca, of course) and see the results unsold, blended with other crap or worse, sold at fire-sale. Until a few decades ago, families would produce wine for their own consumption. Unfortunately it's not the case anymore, as people's lifestyles changed and whenever there is demand for wine, it generally means buying produce which is widely available and marketed under familiar brands. Even the locals would tend to buy a bottle of well known Inferno over something which they are not familiar with. This is partially due to the fact that in the recent and not so recent past, it was common practice to label wine for what it wasn't. You could fall for some very dodgy Valtellina wines which had very little grapes from Valtellina in it at all. People turned wary, and rightly so. Many of the smallest winemakers either died of old age, gave up their work or failed to transmit it to their children, with the inevitable result of the wineyards left to grow wild and ruin.
The concept behind Bulium is to merge the harvest of local producers from the area of Buglio, make the best possible wine from it with the help of local wine masters and sell it under one guaranteed label.
Not only this prevents dodgy vinegar sellers to ruin the name of the Valtellina "brand", it allows the smallest wineyards to stay alive and keep cultivating the terraces, which are a very important part of Valtellina's heritage and shape its landscape in a unique and magnificent way.
At the bottom of the label on every bottle of Bulium you can read "by purchasing this bottle of wine you saved one square meter of terraced land". It does make sense. The label itself has been designed by the local school pupils, chosen out of many drafts which show how the tradition of wine making in Valtellina is being now taught and preserved.
I take my hat off to the Buglio Town Council, in particular to Mr. Valter Sterlocchi, who decided to promote and sponsor this very important initiative. For once, this is not a political exercise or a way to milk money out of the EU or Regional funds. This is for real.
The wine itself then: You know what to expect from a Valtellina, and a Nebbiolo. However, this is different. There is no fancy marketing in the heart of this wine. No oak notes, nothing overly pretentious. It tastes honest, dry, as tannic as a Nebbiolo can be and absolutely good. It stands up to more established wines and beats hands down most wines sold at the same price.
Bulium is a new concept, and a very good one at that. Naturally, there's a lot more work to be done on the sales and marketing side. Nothing that the progressive and modern organisation behind this initiative cannot do.
Keep an eye open for this one. It deserves it.
Cheers
P.S. I will ad a link to the consortium that produces Bulium as soon as I have one.